Tuesday, March 1, 2011

The not so Brilliance of the Seas pt 2


We were so excited to be on the ship. We were doing all the cruise ship things to do, including what became our staple, the quizzes. It was Jade's first time on a cruise so I was hoping it would be a good one for her and it was a good start.
Our first port of call was Sicily. Sicily has been taken over so many times throughout history by so many peoples, Sicilians have learnt to roll with the punches. When the Carthaginians came in, they yelled 'yay', when the Romans kicked out the Carthaginians they yelled "yay", when the fascist came to power "yay", when the fascists were kisked out "yay".
When asked about this and old man replied "it's survival, Sicilians are in the crossfire always so it is necessary for us to not take too much of a side, one way or the other". Sicily is famous for the mafia, which only trusts the family and this may be a reason for that. One other consequesnce is the mix of cultures evident in Sicily. Many different types of building and statue, including one who looks like he is giving the finger, to who I dont know but maybe to all those past invaders. As with a vast majority of western Europe, there are some wonderful markets in Sicily, not only for food but clothes, nic nacs and other things you dont need.
But on this occassion, not having any luggage, some of us did need them and so my Uncle bought himself some clothes since the airline could not say when his luggage would be returned, code for 'oops'. The food markets, as always, were awash with colour and adventurous organisation. They are almost like a work of art, designed to entice you to buy their wares. I particularly like the use of a Swordfish as a pole for a price list.

Next stop on the cruise was Athens. The minute we stepped off the ship we were inundated with touters, mostly for a taxi. They followed us for almost 10 minutes, right up the street. All I can say is they are persistant and must be hard up for a fare. We caught the bus in to the centre, heading for the Acropolis. Considering it is only 6 years since the Olympics in Athens, you would have thought there would be some evidence of it.
I didnt see any, apart from a subway stop called Olympus, but that could be something to do with the mountain or the ancient Greek gods. We arrived at the Acropolis which has undergone restoration for at least 30 years, but this is Greece so it looks like they are still on their first coffee break. Having been through Turkey and seen so much of antiquity, the Acropolis was just another ruin to us, and not a great one at that. Turkey has much better ruins, in much better condition. So there's a tip, if you are after ancient Greek ruins, go to Turkey. The view of the modern Athens, from the top of the Acroplis, was pretty good though.
Its unfortunate that the inventors of democracy should have turned into a huge sprawling metropolis with only a few pockets of its former glory left. I say give up the SUV and go back to the chariot, who needs a computer when you have an abacus. Progress, pfft.
Rhodes was the next port. Another ancient Greek city and home to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the Colossus of Rhodes. A giant bronze statue that straddled the harbour entrance and looked somewhat like the statue of liberty, holding a flame aloft (doubling as a lighthouse).
Rhodes is similar to Sicily in that it has been taken over afe times. This is evident by the mosque built next to a church. There really wasnt too much to Rhodes. Obviously the Colossus was gone, and the memorative statue to say where it was, was very hard to find, so much so that we didnt find it.
There was a curious looking sculpture of some dolphins though. The best thing about Rhodes was the street Souvlakis. They were the best ever and really cheap. Ignore the restaurants lining the main streets touting you to come in (this is still Greece and what would it be without a few touts), go for the hole in the wall street vendors, the small shops that only sell Souvlaki or Yiros. You wont be disappointed.
So, this is where the fun began. As the day went on in Rhodes, the sky began to grey over and then the rain came. It wasnt heavy, although there was some lightning but we didnt give it much mind. Our next stop was to be Alexandria in Egypt, home to another wonder of the ancient world, the Great Lighthouse, and since we were there overnight we had a trip to Cairo planned, to see the Pyramids which is the only wonder of the ancient world left standing.
As we left Rhodes, it was clear we were in for some rough weather and the seas were getting big. We were to arrive at Alexandria in the early morning. So, very early in the morning, for some reason I was awake. It was roughly 3am when the ship started to roll quite a bit and then it rolled a lot. The whole room was moving and anything not bolted down was trying to escape. After the first roll, hanging on to the bed with one hand and Tanya with the other, I could see that everyone was ok and there was no danger. Then the second roll came which was to our side of the ship and since we had the balcony I opened the curtain to have a look. All I could see was water, from top to bottom and when the ship rolled back the other way I saw the water disappear to be replaced by stars. I thought that was actually kind of fun, something you dont see everyday. The ship went through at least five rolls before she righted herself. Apparently what happened was when the ship tried to turn to enter the harbour, she turned beam on to the waves, so that they were hitting the side of the ship instead of the front. This is not good, especially in 70 knot winds. The ship took 16 degree rolls which doesnt sound like much but in a ship that size, it was enough. The next day, we saw some of the damage, broken windows, chairs and tables. The gym was out of action, the video arcade, one of the dining rooms, the casino and the shops. Given that most of the passengers were American, you would have thought this was the end of the world. I heard a number of people talking about near derath experiences and post-traumatic stress already. We werent in any danger really, the ship can handle over 45 degrees before tipping over, but people do like to dramatise. Withing hours, people were contacting newspapers and then it became apparent that some people nearly died, there were many cases of extreme injuries and the ship was extensively damaged and taking on water. Like I said, dramatise. It wasnt really that bad. I think three people had some cuts and all the damage was superficial. The TV in mums rooms landed on her bed, which was typical of the damage. The worst result was that we were now not going to Egypt as the storm did not suside for two days. I saw on the news that much of the eastern Mediterranean coast was battered by the storm and there were huge sand storms in Egypt that blotted out the Pyramids, so even if we did get there we wouldnt have seen much. You cant control the weather, which caused the problems on the ship. You can cotrol how you deal with it though and it has to be said, they didnt deal with it well. A day after the rolling, everyone received a letter saying that we would receive $200 shipboard credit. Someone found out that the people in the suites were receiving $400 and this didnt go down well. Cruise passengers at the best of times will try to get things for free, anything really, so when they actually have a case for compensation, they did everything except stamp their feet. In the main central area of the ship, about 1000 people had gathered to 'demand' to see the captain, the boss, THE PRESIDENT!!! It was a mob and was not too far from a riot. After much 'debate' and poor handling by the ships hierachy, and a day of consultation with the head office, it was announced that all passengers would recieve a full refund. That made people happy and so back to the buffet they went. We would also stay in Malta overnight as a 'replacement' for Egypt. Malta is actually quite a nice place and I would like to go there for a week. Valetta is the capital and the place we docked. It is another old town made of stone. Narrow streets and since it is built on hills, lots of steps are the norm.
Being an island in the Mediterranean it has that island feel to it, like everyday is a holiday, and it runs on island time. Even though there was a lot to see here, in terms of architecture and culture, after the events of the last few days on board, we walked around almost in a daze. We covered the whole city and we were going to catch one of the ancient looking yellow buses to a town on the outskirts, if it hadnt gotten dark, clouds yet again coming over.
This time is was only a rain shower and not a full blown storm, but it did put us off going on the bus. The clouds started to evapourate and a magnificent sunset replaced them. Most people in Malta are used to tourists and the first question they ask is where are you from. When you reply Australia, they always comment "oh, are do you have family here". After WWII, a lot of Maltese emmigrated to Australia and so there is a string link between the two.
So, people were always somewhat more friendly to us than to others, which maybe only extended to not getting upset when we didnt give them money or buy their wares.
After being in Malta for two days, we headed back to Barcelona. The day before we arrived, we foud out that because we were on stand by and because they could, we would not get the $200 shipboard credit and we would not get the full refund, or any refund for that matter.
Because we were 'family and friends' of an employee, they felt that they could, no they had the right and obligation, to screw us over. So they did. Given that we didnt get to do to the same places everyone else didnt, and didnt get to use the ships facilities that the others didnt, we think this was poor form on Royal Caribbean's part. It wouldnt have cost them much more in the scheme of things and it has cost them in bad word of mouth and PR. So, we arrived in Barcelona and would spend one night there before we headed to Dublin.

The not so Brilliance of the Seas pt 1

We arrived in Barcelona without any hassles. We found our hostel without any hassles but when we arrived, there was no sign of the family that were supposed to be there before us. We assumed the Spanish air traffic controllers strike got them too. The manager of the hostel wanted to charge us for them not turning up, talk about sympathy. We knew that our friend Jade was there, since she arrived the day before so we went to find her and to call my mum and get an update as to her situation. After checking a few times at her hotel and just missing her, we eventually caught up with Jade. When we called mum she said her flights were cancelled and they couldnt get another flight for 2 days. She had arranged to catch a ferry, thinking it would arrive in Barcelona at 6am, but as I was on the phone with her she found out it arrived at 6pm. This did not go down well. We all had a stand by booking for a cruise that would leave at 5pm the next day on the Brilliance of the Seas and we were all looking forward to seeing Greece, Sicily, Malta and Egypt. At this point it looked like only three of us going. Back at the hostel the managers had found people to fill the beds and so graciously didnt charge us. Since we had to be up early we went to bed straight away. At 2am one guy came in drunk and started snoring so loudly it vibrated my bed across the room and woke up the whole dorm. Nice. The next morning we made our way to the port, myself, Tanya and Jade. Since we were on stand by we had to wait until most of the passengers had arrived before we coudl find out if we had a cabin. So we sat in a nearby cafe and waited. Around mid morning we received a phone call on Jade's mobile from mum. They managed to get a flight, including my Uncle from England, and should arrive around lunch time. Things seemed to come together for them which was great and they arrived at the port, albeit without luggage since the airline had lost it. It was good to see family again for the first time in four months. Now we needed to wait (again) to see if we had a cabin. The lady looking after the bookings, Monica, was awesome. She went out of her way to get us on the ship, which she did. We managed to get two cabins, one with a balcony which is almost unheard of for stand by. So we were on and looking forward to a nice 12 day cruise. Or so we thought. To be continued.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Madrid


The flight from Milan to Madrid was simple and straightforward, and would prove to be the last simple and straightforward travel for a while. We arrived in Madrid in the evening and were met by a friend whose place we were staying at. We spent the next couple of days wandering around the centre of Madrid, taking in the sights and trying to get rid of some of the currency we still had.
Because of the 'mixup' with accommodation in Macedonia, when we had to stay in a hotel instead of the hostel, we had quite a bit of Macedonian money left, and Albanian, and Serbian, and Bulgarian. The Bulgarian wasnt a problem to get rid of, but the rest no one wanted to know. Even in big places like Budapest, which isnt too far from these countries, did not want our leftovers. At the airport in Madrid we asked, and got the same answer. They told us to try the main branch of the Bank of Spain, THE official bank in Spain.
After walking around to find the bank, we then had to walk all around the building trying to find a way in. It's like a secret, the way in to the bank and we walked around the whole block which the building took up and finaly found the way in. When we got inside and asked to change foreign currency, we got a look as though we have the plague. It was worth a try. Madrid has some wonderful markets, as does all of Spain. Although tapas does not necessarily originate from Madrid, it has permeated into the culinary culture so that now you can find it almost anywhere in Spain. Markets are some of the best places to find it too, as they use the fresh ingredients there and then.

Not too far away from Madrid is Toledo. There have been people in Toledo since Roman times and has been a capital of Spain for quite some time. In fact, it is only relatively recently that Toledo has not been so important. This means that it is an old city with plenty of history, plenty of things to see and not too many people. Perfect. When you walk around Toledo you feel like you have travelled back in time. Narrow streets that dont seem have too much of a plan to them are shared by passenger and vehicle alike.
Sometimes there is not enough room for both and one has to make way, and there is no rule for who, just who has the biggest... cojones is the Spanish word for it. It is a place you could spend a lot of time without realising it, wandering about the streets, sitting in the bars and cafes whiling away the day, soaking up the history. There is a great museum in Toledo, a military museum which is housed in the Alcazar. The Alcazar was a fort that has been there for centuries.
The current one has been there for about 500 years and was last used as a stronghold during the civil war in the '30s. It was mostly demolished but the defenders held out for quite some time. Now it houses the military history of Spain from the pre-Roman colonisation to present day. There is a car in the museum, a very early car which I was looking at. I bent over to see what was under one of the wheels and placed my hand on the car for balance for all of about 3 seconds.
I'm suprised that alarms and flashing lights didnt go off the way a woman reacted. She started to tell me not to touch things and when I didnt immediately acknowledge her and beg for forgivness, she came marching over from at least 20m away just to tell me not to touch.
Our next stop was Barcelona and originally we had planned to take the train. There is a high speed train that takes only 3 hours but it is a lot more expensive than we first thought. So, after finding a cheap flight we changed our minds and decided to fly. Our friend who we were staying with works at the aiport and came home the night before we were to leave and told us that the air traffic controllers went out on strike. This is a common thing with the Spanish but my friend says that this time they went too far.
It was an unannounced strike on a busy long weekend and it really backfired on them. The military was sent in to take over and they were threatened with prison (I think some actually did go to jail). This did nothing for us because we had to be in Barcelona to meet people and to catch our next transport. We went to the airport in the morning anyway, arriving at 5:30am for our 7am flight. We got checked in and received our boarding pass and were told to wait. So wait we did. 6am. 7am.9,10,11am. By 12:30pm they annoucned that no flights were leaving and had all been cancelled. We found our luggage and headed to the train station to get the train that we were going to take in the first place.
Always go with your first instinct, but then again hindsight is always 20/20. The train journey wasnt too bad and we arrived in Barcelona and met up with our friend. We were supposed to meet my mother, uncle and sister that day too, but they had flights that went through Spain and were also cancelled. Not knowing what we were going to do if they didnt arrive, we just had to wait, which we were getting good at by now. Wait...

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

2010 - The year of the scaffolding



Belgrade

Here are some more scaffolding pictures. The building with scaffolding in Sarajevo is interesting. It is the on the site where Archduke Ferdinand was assassinated, which started WWI (the building wasnt actually there at the time, but that is the spot where the shots were fired, opposite the bridge). It is the national library and was shelled during the recent war with Serbia, and has been under restoration since.

Sarajevo

Milano merda


My first memories of Milan are not actually from Milan, they are from Turin. One of the biggest rivalries in soccer, or sport for that matter, is AC Milan and Juventus. There was some graffitti in Turin (home of Juventus) that said Milano Merda, which means Milan is sh!te. That is a good introduction into Italy, where football is a close second for the national religion (with corruption being a close third). People in Milan were quite friendly, very enthusiastic in almost everything they do. When we asked the guy at the front desk about a restaurant, his eyes were open as wide as they could be and it seemed like every word was the most important thing he had ever heard.
He didnt tell us about a restaurant, he actually went outside and showed where it was. When we got to the restaurant, we were met as though we were old friends not seen for a long time and given a free drink. Now, this is from people who's job it is to be friendly, but this was the norm in Milan.
We spent two days in Milan, walking around the old part of the city. Naturally, this being Italy, it had marvellous architecture in many different styles and it seemed every building had a story to tell.
Although the weather wasnt great and we were really tired from 4 months of being on the road, we enjoyed our time in Milan and it is one of those places that we must go back to, because, as with many places in Italy, you just cant see all of it in a short time. Where else can you see cars parked inside a medieval castle?

Saturday, February 5, 2011

3 Countries in one day


We left Slovenia and decided to high tail it straight to Nice, which means going right across the top of Italy. The roads were ok, but expensive. I think the Northern Italian roads are second only to all of France when it comes to tolls. It was over $100 for the 600 odd km journey. As we set off from Slovenia, the closer we got to the Italian border, the more the weather set in. Not too far from the border, it started to snow. While I found it enjoyable to drive in the snow, being a bit of a novelty, apparantly that is the signal for all Italians to stop. So stop we did. On a three lane toll-freeway, we didnt move for at least half an hour. We moved 1.6km in one hour. I assumed that it was an accident that we would see eventually. No, just Italians stopping, for coffee, or something. The traffic starting moving again as suddenly as it stopped.
I kept expecting to see some form of damaged vehicle(s), but nothing. The snow continued for a while then stopped. On the Western side of Northern Italy, if you follow me, the roads became fun. Lots of fun. Driving in this great little car, the roads became very windy, and the weather cleared up just in time, becoming fine and the sun even came out. For a good two hours the roads were windy and I had a great time. I can see why Top Gear come to this region a lot. We arrived in Nice after dark, found the hotel and spent a quiet night there. From our last time in Nice, we didnt think there was too much more to see, so it was a case of, food, movie, bed. In that order. The next day we had to catch a train to Milan, which meant one train to Monaco, then change to a train for the Italian border then a connecting one to Milan. When we got to the station there was a train at the platform. After looking at the board, I realised that was the train we needed, just as it was pulling away. That would have been the train with good connections, only 10 minutes or so at each stop. Sinc we missed that one, it was 45 minutes in Monaco and 3 hours at the Italian border. The trials of travelling. It gave us a good opportunity to observe the Italian train station. Just like the French, train stations in Italy are a great place for good, cheap food.
People go there to eat and not even get on a train. To watch them make a pizza was interesting. From dough to serving in 15 minutes. The rest of the train ride was pleasant, if uneventful. We arrived in Milan in the evening, found our way to the hotel by subway, took a picture of Adam Lutley's twin at the tram stop, and the rest is the subject of the next episode...

2010 - The year of the scaffolding

Here are some more great scaffolding pictures from around europe.


Prague



Cesky Krumlov



Riga